I have been trying to capture the beauty, simplicity, power, and perfection of this place and have struggled with its articulation. Today felt like a complete embodiment of everything that is good, holy, and nourishing about this life.
I woke up at 5:45 with the late sunrise and howler monkeys. This is actually sleeping in for me as the early light surrounds my mosquito net 360 degrees since there are no walls. I grabbed my yoga mat and attended a class taught by my talented, open, and generous classmate and friend at the highest point of the farm, surrounded by the morning jungle noises and first bits of bright light piercing through the trees. Just as we are all in shavanasa closing our practice, the conch shell is blown, signaling that meal time is soon.
We all gathered for breakfast, sharing the chores of setting the table and carrying out the food, giggling and swapping stories between those who stayed up late getting drunk on the homemade mead, and those who retired early to the comfort of the cicadas and their own mosquito-free haven. There is a communal opening and closing to each meal, as we come together to set the table and enjoy the bountiful spread, then disperse one by one or in pairs as we chatter and clean our dishes, clear the table, and set off getting ready for the day.
After suiting up and grabbing our towels and water bottles we head off together, the group of us nine, feeling more like a family than a cluster of people who one week ago were strangers forgetting each other’s names. The chatter and energy is especially upbeat as this was our first free day, and we were all excited to go to town and the beach.
We scamper down the two mile rocky driveway as a jolly little pack. Once we hit the main road we stop for fresh coconuts to drink, and two decide to pair off and hitchhike the rest of the way. After another stretch of bicycle, scooter, and car-filled road our hosts pull over and offer the rest of us a ride, they were on their way to the farmers market to pick up essentials for the week from their fellow farmers and friends. Seven of us cram into the seats and trunk, sweating out the last few minutes practically on top of each other.
It’s a unanimous decision to stop of the farmers market first and we quickly scatter like kids in a candy store. Jungle juice (a probiotic ginger ale), reusable menstrual products, jewelry, produce, bags and sweet baked goods tempt us as we wander, constantly grabbing each other with excitement to point out something we know they would like. I make my way to the chocolate table where the cacao farmers offer samples of lotus chocolate and tell us the creation story of cacao, how three sisters were tested by a god who ended up turning them into the cacao tree and her two closest relatives. I gladly come away with two bars (including one made from the three sisters) and a beautiful charcoal soap made from biochar they made out of sticks from the farm, a process we had just learned about this week and cleared a patch of jungle in order to produce.
Next stop: the local coffee shop where if you know who to ask for, you can also buy weed. They have “damn good” coffee, their sign says, but the real treat is asking the folks there to surprise you with one of their incredible juices. Mine turns out to be some sort of banana, lime, ginger slice of heaven that makes me forget my face is already burning.
Next a few of us split off to find a woman, Sagu, who backpacks around the world with her beautiful baby daughter and makes incredible jewelry. Our friend had met her at a hostel in town and we had all waited to buy jewelry until we could get it from her. She has a stunning spread, earrings made from feathers she collected in the Amazon, stones she had picked up throughout central and South America, and pieces wrapped either in wire or woven wax-covered cotton string. Her work is impeccable but her energy is even more amazing. She lays out raw stones for us, we flutter around them, touching everything and gawking and it as if we had never seen anything like it before, as if we hadn’t done this at least 50 different times, each time telling each other to “look, look at this one!” We hold them and do kinetic energy tests, seeing which we react strongest to, and she makes custom wired-wrapped necklaces for us on the spot, her fingers working with speed and precision as she effortlessly rattles off names and places of origin of each of the stones we admire and inquire about.
By this point we’re ravenous, having long burnt off the farm-fresh eggs, homemade chili sauce, beans, and fruit salad with the neighbors goat yogurt, bee pollen, and cacao from the property that we had for breakfast. We find a cool spot with fresh mint lemonade, delicious food, and wifi, so we stop, but get too caught up in yet another phenomenal, heart-opening conversation and end up neglecting our phones and high-speed internet anyway. This type of connection is the one we’ve come to crave, the spotty wifi at the farm and the passion we all have been sharing all week have fostered a community in real life, not on social media. By this time the sun is weakening, still warm and humid but no longer oppressive, and we wander back towards the beach for a dip before heading home.
Passing Sagu we stop to play with her baby, then stumble upon the rest of the group at the beach next to a bar that a few of them have been taking advantage of using. We join those in the water, come back for a quick doobie, and a few of us head off to make it home by dark.
We take a different path out out of town, not along the road but instead between the beach and jungle, an edge environment or ecosystem as we had learned in lecture yesterday, and fall into silence other than the occasion comment about how unbelievably stunning the scenery is. The jungle thins out just in time for us to recognize the chocolate bar our hosts had told us about, where we welcome the walk-in fridge with chocolate samples, and giggle at how lucky we are to have our own farm-fresh cacao nibs in our breakfast every morning.
The path ends shortly thereafter and the road is directly next to the beach. We hear bizarre noises we think at first are coming from a passing scooter, but then recognize the familiar howler monkey call coming from right above us. We look up to see a cluster of monkeys in the trees, including a baby monkey learning how to navigate the highest, smallest branches. Its movement is so clumsy compared to the balance and grace of the adults, and a few times I take sharp breaths fearing that it will fall. Of course it doesn’t.
By this point the buildings have thinned out to a few restaurants, shops, and cafes, with more green space in between them all. Everything is quieter and we feel more at home than in the hustle and bustle of the upbeat surf town with locals and tourists alike flocking to the beach for the weekend, and the great waves. The sun is just starting to set and dusk is settling over the jungle. As we turn onto our gravel road we use the budding moonlight for as long as possible before resorting to our flashlights. We continue commenting on how perfect the day was. We startle up a poisonous coral snake, a good reminder to always use our lights even when the moonlight is as strong as the almost-full glow it currently casts, and I feel a deep sense of appreciation for the creatures who allow me to share their home with them, despite having the option of removing me from their environment.
As we chat about the beautiful beach weather and amazing sun we were able to absorb and enjoy today, I think to myself how I hope we have a bit of a rain tonight. I am a water baby so the rain always makes me happy, and there is something so special about how it falls in the electric, thriving jungle. It is the lifeblood of the life-death-life cycle and has become as much a part of my day as breathing. Just as we get home (truly, no place that I’ve been for only one week has ever felt so wholly and fully like home) and get to the showers, a light rain is pitter-pattering on the tin roof. We all giggle and comment on its serendipitous timing as we enjoy the cool, gravity fed, rain-water shower system. This time of day only cold water is available since the heating system is a black coiled hose the is warmed by the sun, but this evening the water isn’t as cold as it can be at 6am when I’m coming back from my run.
Now we’re making dinner in the kitchen, or as our host put it, the heart of this farm and the shrine to all that we do here; the alter on which we prepare our offerings of nutrition, intention, and love to ourselves, to each other, and back to the land that we work to protect, cultivate. The land we work with and for, the space for which we are forever in awe. For every bit of nutrients we grow we work to give back in abundance, to establish a cycle of gains, growth and sustainable use, for us and for the future of this planet, regardless of our existence on it.
I came here hungry to learn, excited to delve into the context books and lectures would provide, and the hands on experience of working the earth with my hands and heart. What I have received permeates beyond that into something much deeper, into the exact power source I have been looking to tap into, which is in the doing, the being, the fully engaged experience where we live, breath, wake, sleep, eat, and consume this lifestyle as a holistic, community-based and run ecosystem. This is so much more than I ever could have hoped for, and what I have learned from the people in this program and the jungle we all hold in our hearts as so sacred is more than I ever could have imagined.
I am dripping with gratitude and joy. I am blessed, honored, and humbled to be a part of this incredible earth and all of her extraordinary creations. Thank you, thank you, thank you, sweet, wise, beautiful universe, for landing me smack dab in the middle of my dream world. I will work the rest of my life to achieve this level of harmonious vibration, and to spread this exceptional gift.